Interestingly I should mention that that fridge used to work terribly. . On switch causes it to start but it will only start in gas. It would be nice to have another display panel in case that's the problem  (Yeah right who has one of those laying around lol), Although this concerns ARP Installation:  https://www.arprv.com/dometic-rm1350.php. Check the diffuser duct to see if it is clogged with ice. Checked the element resistance with an ohmmeter. Is the operation you are describing here operating with power directly to the 120V heaters? We initially had problems with the electric not working right after we had gotten our RV winterized. Some say that letting these sit unused for long enough will cause either a sludge like formation or a chemical combination that might be reversed. Today I have other things I have to do but I will talk to Dinosaur and Dometic as has been suggested. It seems like there are several things on the same circuit, each with  it's own ground. I agree that 3 bad boards would be unlikely but 2 licensed experienced mobile techs said that that had to be the problem so I kept trying. One of the simplest problems that could be causing this situation is that the fridge has not had the time to cool down. Run a propane fridge when it isn’t level and gravity may not be able to do its job properly. Sitting can impact some things but I can't think of any reason sitting would account for the problem that you have. There is nothing wrong with the fridge itself as it works perfectly on gas, but is inoperative on battery or mains electric. What make/model is the RV? Since I can get 34f I'm  happy. A short and very basic how to check and repair the element. ! No problem! We went looking and found that the fridge had been unplugged from the electric supply. I am so sorry! Believe it or not I do have another new board but I am reluctant to risk it  in case something in the system breaks it. On the other hand, if he as come back at all, he has not signed in so all of our efforts may be a waste of time. Sometimes rust and other debris drop from the vent and blocks the burner unit. mode  without stopping at off first. Testing this may require a qualified RV shop. You will need a volt-Ohm meter to check the resistance or open circuit on the heater element. They do go bad. And for long term use an all-electric model freezer is frost-free, where conventional RV models are not. It’s best to use one in each compartment. This form of refrigeration doesn’t require any moving parts which is beneficial in an RV as the jostling from travel can often interfere with those moving elem… 2-"loser board" eigh!" John T   Runnin out of ideas here, if all else fails you may have to resort to reading the manual lol. Did you ever get your 1350 working properly? Checked everything else suggested and all is working except the AC mode. There are wires and connectors from the front display panel down to the rear board, so if its possible to get to them I would next concentrate my troubleshooting on that wiring and connections or else consider those display panel issues described below on the web page I cite. This can lead you to the problem area quickly and the codes and procedure to read them should be in the owner’s booklet. Excuse the rant but I want you to know I am not just saying yes to every question. There will be times when you can remedy the situation and other times when you have to call the tech. It all the power is coming in as it should make sure the element that provides the heat in the boiler is working when on electric. At this point, contact an RV dealer to determine which option will be the most cost-effective. You can get them through this dealer. If you have an onboard generator you’ll need to run it almost constantly for the refrigerator, which could disrupt the quiet hours and noise restrictions at the campground you’re in. It may not be sensing AC  incoming or it is not switching it on. If the unit works on LP gas but not on electric or vice versa, it means the basic cooling unit is intact. What do you have to lose? Control reverts to full automatic operation."" First check that the LP gas tank has sufficient gas in it, that the valve is on, and any safety devices such as LP alarms have not disconnected the supply. If yours can work in constant cool mode and never freeze the lower part of the refrigerator, I have to suspect that the cooling system has issues, but do not see how that could prevent the automatic shift to 120V. I am in Key West right now and there is lots to do and many friends so I may be a bit slow. The wires powering the heating element typically come from the metal enclosure below the cooling unit, accessed from the back of the fridge. Everything tests correctly and the heaters are delivering heat to the boilers when connected directly. I will report back. I agree about tracing the 120v through the board  which I thought might be beyond my ability. I wound up with extras. Today I got back at it in spite of the cold. I did something I read about and fed the heater directly bypassing the board and it worked (at least as well gas does anyway) so I know it is capable of functioning. If you own a propane-powered RV fridge, check to see if the pilot light is operational. Can you please help. I also tested the Thermostat just to be sure. Thanks for the feedback...…….Okay from what you say it appears the AC heating element itself  is okay and not shorted but if you tried three boards and still have the problem ?????????????????? I have a Norcold N641R RV refrigerator. This sometimes unclogs them and gets them working again, and all it takes is a little labor and time. Let me check to see if I can find someone who works in RV repairs to help you. I knew that there would be problems from sitting too long when we got it  but the price was so attractive that I could spend a couple of months and a few thou on it and still do great. If yours can work in constant cool mode and never freeze the lower part of the refrigerator, I have to suspect that the cooling system has issues, but do not see how that could prevent the automatic shift to 120V. I don't know if sitting for years hurts dometics either. A propane RV fridge does not pump coolant like a standard electric refrigerator. There are many reasons for this, but the core difference comes from RV fridges using absorption refrigeration.   You cannot paste images directly. If the flame remains lit, look for flame quality; it requires a well-shaped flame that’s mostly blue. ... My dometic refrigerator model DM2652RBX on occasion stops working on AC. Is your Norcold refrigerator not turning on? I also had the DW stay inside and worked the controls while I  checked the wires where they entered the romex connectors. The refrigerator works on electric, but does not get as cold as it should. While you've got the meter out, confirm power at the plug. If good. I still have one new main board up my sleeve bit I don't want to chance wrecking it until I understand the problem. It was left unused for years. 1. Started August 4, 2011, By We'll give you a list of things to check to get it back on as soon as possible.To be clear, what we're talking about here is the refrigerator acting as if it has no power at all. It may improve more but it it makes it to 34 in a tropical temperature I would be happy if only it would function with the proper controls. In reading your first post again, it seems that the auto function will not select 120V mode? Those are typically electric only and much simpler and cheaper than a 2 way or 3 way absorption refrigerator typically installed inside. When J12 is disconnected the light stays on. Kahoona, I hear you. • Blown fuse. Checked the element resistance with an ohmmeter. Working on it between activities here in Key West. If it lights but goes out quickly, the thermocouple (which detects the heat from the flame and controls the gas valve) may be faulty. That fridge kept the ice cream so hard you couldn’t scoop it. I have found them to be superior to the OEM boards, cost less, and they have a better warranty. Started December 31, 2020. :D.  I have done every test in the manual twice to be sure. Might not be the exact same fridge but it is at least a … I do have the manual which I printed and have nearly worn out :D.  I have done every test in the manual twice to be sure. The AC voltage of a Norcold refrigerator should be in between 108 and 132 volts and between 10.5 and 15.4 volts for CV voltage. Full timing is going to be even funner! 3. Tap the metal shielding in the area directly over the burner to dislodge more rust and dirt, and vacuum again. If necessary, push a thin wire into the burner orifice to unclog it. Today, we checked the fuses, and they were fine. Thanks. 1) You stated   "DC power to lower board"  Have you checked the actual voltage ??? I live out in the middle of nowhere where I can get to a dealer. NOT PICTURED: Test for proper voltage on each side of the water heater element by touching one probe of your multimeter to each screw, while touching the other to common ground. The actual connection is cone in the relay center left. I have tried the rest though. :D. Heating element tests at proper resistance and is at this moment powering the fridge  having been jumped directly from the input wires to J5 and J6. Page 16 of the linked manual gives some information and one of the items to check is that the resistance of the 120V heating element should be 34.3Ω. 2. Once I replaced the igniter the LP gas worked and things got easier. At the camp site, it works fine on gas. Diamond c Also, check to see if the unit is still in warranty. Outback RV Owners Forum. The fans work. Upload or insert images from URL. Is one of them a small "dorm" refrigerator in the outdoor kitchen? Started December 31, 2020, By How old is the subject refrigerator? Rebuilt circuit boards and cooling units are available for many popular RV refrigerators. They do it to all of the most important messages so I should have looked. It has a tube extending toward the gas burner. Note: The following steps are for units that operate on LP gas, but not on 120 Volts AC. The gas lights steady but the spark keeps going like the igniter does not know the flame is OK! Board is 2 sided AC Neutrals  both in and out are  connected at J6&J7. Am I correct that your refrigerator never automatically selects 120V? In the end I may wind up installing a switch to choose elect or gas like yours. Many times it’s something minor that causes your refrigerator to malfunction. Yes If so that would mean that it is in a constant cool mode since there is no control function. I guess we’ve been lucky, had a couple dozen RV’s since 1968, and not one of the fridges in any of them gave us a minutes problem. The flow of propane to the refrigerator is controlled by the thermocouple. It’s never fun discovering that your RV’s refrigerator is on the fritz, especially when you’re out on the road with no access to your dealer or repair service. Somewhere there is one connection or little bit of hardware that is failing in an unusual way and I can't find it. In a healthy cooling unit the continuous operation mode will usually freeze everything if left overnight. Since three boards act the same I'm starting to doubt its a board problem and you have pretty well eliminated the other things I asked about above. Thanks, Agreed.That is what is making me crazy! 1he 1350 has soft touch buttons and goes straight to auto when turned on. I don't know if sitting for years hurts dometics either. I have repopulated and overhauled 70's audio boards  but I had diagrams and reading lists. It would be nice to have another display panel in case that's the problem  (Yeah right who has one of those laying around lol) LOLer I bought a new one and also a control  button panel and installed them because I was having trouble testing them. If there’s no cooling, sniff around the refrigerator. I have traced the wires to every peripheral device to see if wires are crossed of something is shorted. By A multimeter is recommended, but plugging a blow dryer or other device into the outlet can tell you if the voltage is present. If Your RV Doesn’t Have an Inverter In some cases, you could have an RV with a residential fridge that only works on AC power, and not have an inverter built-in. To learn more about how your RV fridge works and why it may not be cooling down while the freezer is, just keep reading our article. I thought than nobody replied because Outlook put you in the Spam folder. Since I can get 34f I'm  happy. Have you checked to make sure that your rv is level? 2) You stated " AC to loser board" and now what you posted makes it appear the heating element itself is okay and not shorted. I appreciate your suggestions because they confirm the path I took and may  just lead to the Ah Ha moment. I would also trace the 120V through the lower circuit board, starting by checking for it between pins J5 & J6, then move to the 5A fuse and measure from neutral to each side of that fuse, which should show 120V to each side of it. Thanks. The fact that it works properly when on propan tells me that all parts of the control circuitry are working properly since both energy sources use the exact same controls. Understanding the basics will help you in locating the cause of the failure.AC/DC model Dometic refrigerators are fairly simple in troubleshooting. I knew that there would be problems from sitting too long when we got it  but the price was so attractive that I could spend a couple of months and a few thou on it and still do great. Now electric is working but gas not. To do this, remove the metal shielding and use a shop vacuum to clean the area near the burner thoroughly. This demonstrates that the hearer is good and the power is good. If this component is done for, it’s time to get a new one. The pins and sockets all looked good on the connectors also. If so that would mean that it is in a constant cool mode since there is no control function. Check for bad wiring connections, power down and back up. 120v at the outlets. There are wires and connectors from the front display panel down to the rear board, so if its possible to get to them I would next concentrate my troubleshooting on that wiring and connections or else consider those display panel issues described below on the web page I cite. and found no fault. Dometic Refrigerator model RM1350SLMX - was working fine on both gas & electric picked it up from storage will not cool on gas or electric unit is level fuses working & circuit breaker are ok. On pane … read more There are no pumps to wear out, and no compressors either. Why You Need an RV-Specific Fridge. I already got the manual and have literally worn the printed copy out! Guest cindona NOTE since you don't have the ARP none of this may apply I didn't take the time to study it carefully so take this with a grain of salt !!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I will start on tracing the AC through the lower board if I can like Kirk was saying. 1. How do I fix this? Excuse the rant but I want you to know I am not just saying yes to every question. I have the shop manual and have run some troubleshooting. Have something to add? Any way that the defeated lock could affect the element? What you haven't mentioned checking is the two fuses on the main circuit board. It is a RM1350, often considered the worst functioning fridge ever. Is your Dometic refrigerator not getting cool enough?There are several components that work together to get the refrigerator to cool properly. That seems to be the reason you don't get electric operation. I did something I read about and fed the heater directly bypassing the board and it worked (at least as well gas does anyway) so I know it is capable of functioning. I went around the board checking every connection coming off of it to be sure that they went to the right place and that they worked. Are you worried about food and drinks being spoiled? Problem: It runs on propane, but not 110v. I also like to use a jumper across the fuse holder in place of the fuse just as an alternate way to verify that it isn't causing a problem. LOL RV's are fun.   Pasted as rich text. A multimeter should be used, but make sure to be careful because the voltage is hazardous. If you do get another lower board, before you do so check to see if there is one available from Dinosaur Electronics to fit your Refrigerator. He did indicate that he has 120V to the lower circuit board and also that he somehow checked the electric element. I have 2 used boards I can bench and work with safely here in the campground. Its just hard to believe three rear control boards are all bad. Goes right to gas. I have replaced the board three times so either the board id not the problem or something blows up the boards. is It is sounding to me like you may have more than one problem. Generally, only minor removal of shielding is needed for access and this should be done while the unit is unplugged. Tomorrow I will call Dinosaur and Dometic. The cooling effect from most RV refrigerators originates in the freezer compartment and then goes into the main compartment. Instead, it uses gravity to move ammonia which is used to cool the unit. I replaced the power supply. Check for bad wiring connections, power down and back up. I am frustrated because everything points to the board but here I sit with three boards that I replaced and every time I still have the problem. If your refrigerator is on the gas setting, you can also check the back of the refrigerator to see if the flame is present if it is on the gas setting. It won't run on AC. All were provably good except for the J3 which goes inside the back of the fridge and powers the fans and 2 heating coils. In case you do not have one the RM1350 service manual is available on the website of Bryant RV Service. It seems highly unlikely that you would have 3 bad circuit boards and most suppliers will not allow you to return one so I'd go a long way before buying a fourth. Clear editor. The most recent board that I remived had evidence of heating on the C5 capacitor but the other old ones have no visual evidence of a any blown components. 3. Lateboomer1 If I have it on shore power and I turn to auto it will not, I have checked then outlet it has power- … The first step is understanding how your fridge works. Then this RV refrigerator repair guide is for you. If both voltages are present and all indicator lamps work, check for trouble codes on refrigerators that have this feature. If too low it can cause erratic behavior, does it help or matter if you're plugged to shore power or not which can raise that voltage ?? Hi. The first was in a 1965 TeePee 16 ft TT. 4) Again the AC portion requires 120 VAC at the receptacle where the fridge plugs in plus a good non blown AC fuse on the board, sure its getting 120 VAC ??? An alternate method, if you can work safely with electricity, is to disconnect the electric heater element and wire it directly to 120 Volt cord and plug it in and let it operate overnight. If it is on the electric setting, hold your hand near the heating element area in the back of the unit (but avoid touching as it may cause a burn). a 2008 and it had 23,000mi on it. 2. Oh well check out the web site Diagnostics it may help or confuse you even more  I may be a bit slow here as I am parked in Key West and there are a ton of things to do this week here. I am frustrated because everything points to the board but here I sit with three boards that I replaced and every time I still have the problem. Check circuit breakers and fuses, but most importantly you need to check the outlet at the back of the refrigerator to make sure voltage really is there. Kahoona, The AC sensing circuit is not turning the power on when Auto is selected. Test voltage while the heating element is connected and powered up. But, when we travel to and from the camp site, we put refrigerator on gas, but the refrigerator is not staying cold. They have troubleshooting guides on their website and make superior replacement circuit boards if you decide you need another one. Try to determine if there is a good flame. agesilaus When the fridge is turned on the lock still makes a clank. Use a screwdriver to remove the tin shielding around the burner assembly. My Norcold RV fridge does not work on l.p. anymore. Fix: The thermocouple is attached to the main gas valve in the back of the refrigerator. If you are unsure of your electrical skills, have this done by a professional. You can post now and register later. 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2020 rv fridge not working on electric